Day 4 - "Qué ritmo!"

We enjoyed another early morning as we boarded the bus for Irazú Volcano. Located in the Cordillera Central mountain range, this 11,260 feet mountain is the highest active volcano in Costa Rica. The drive took us through the scenic former capital city of Cartago, including its beautiful unfinished cathedral in the town square. As we drove higher and higher, we enjoyed verdant vistas of jungle merging into temperate rainforest, punctuated by fields of potatoes, onions, broccoli, and beets. By the time we reached the summit, it was enclouded in a thick fog and the temperature was chilly. It reminded us of a San Francisco summer!

As we walked down into the caldera, coated with a soft layer of volcanic ash, the guides, assisted by Alice, described the local flora and fauna. Particularly memorable were the giant purse-umbrella plants, adapted for the chilly climate and high winds atop the volcano. The singers enjoyed examining the lava rocks, running into the mist, and visiting a scenic plant tunnel which looked like something out of Jurassic Park. We warmed up with delicious hot chocolate before boarding the bus to head to lunch. Once again, the restaurant enjoyed spectacular views, perched on a ledge amid the deep green valleys. In addition to the usual medley of rice and beans, meat and fish, and salad, we sampled the fried cheese (queso frito), delicious milk cookies (cajetas), and some particularly spectacular plantains.  

On our way back, we stopped at the beautiful 19th-century church, La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Los Desamparados, where we would later perform for a brief sound check. We were greeted by the parish priest, who welcomed us into the building after mass and complimented us on our singing. After free time back at the hotel, we returned to the church for the evening concert. To our delight, the church was completely packed and standing-room only, as it appeared that the entire congregation had stayed after the 6 pm service. Three Costa Rican choirs opened the program: one children’s chorus, one church choir, and the choir of the University of Costa Rica. The university choir closed their set with Orbán’s Daemon irrepit calidus, a particular favorite of Ecco from a few years ago, much to our singers’ delight. 

Ecco then offered our most substantial tour program yet (seven full songs!), with beautifully delivered English and Spanish commentary by Andrés and Lucía. The priest was particularly taken by Tiptipa Kemmakem and even exclaimed, “Qué ritmo!” at the end - quite a compliment for an American choir in Latin America! Rockin’ Jerusalem and Panda Chant II were received with particular enthusiasm. The sound soared gloriously into the dome and throughout the vast space. Upon our return to the hotel for dinner, morale was high once again after another rewarding performance. News that they could sleep in the next morning was greeted with a hearty cheer! Tonight’s dinner coincided with a birthday celebration at the hotel, so we were serenaded by a mariachi band while we enjoyed our poolside dinner. 

Tomorrow will be full of music-making, featuring a morning of massed rehearsal with the other choirs followed by the closing festival concert. 

Tate Bissinger